How to carry out T-budding or shield budding for fruit tress and roses
Budding is a type of asexual propagation and a special form of grafting, generally used in fruit trees and roses, where a single bud from one plant is removed and inserted into the stem of another in order to produce a new plant.
Budding differs from grafting in the fact that only a single bud is required for this process and not a whole shoot and also because process is carried out during the active growth season rather than when the plants lie dormant. However, both methods produce the same results.
Budding differs from grafting in the fact that only a single bud is required for this process and not a whole shoot and also because process is carried out during the active growth season rather than when the plants lie dormant. However, both methods produce the same results.
Why budding?
This form of propagation is employed when other forms such as growing from seed or from cuttings prove unsuccessful. The stock plant will provide the strong root system, whilst the plant to be propagated provides the "top growth".
Budding is a handy method to use if two separate plants have varied good qualities between them, as joining them together will produce an even stronger and healthier specimen. What is lacking in one plant may be found in the other and many new species of roses and other plants are born from this method.
With this type of propagation, fruit trees will produce fruit early and more quickly, plus it is also an excellent method to revive weaker plants and repair damaged ones.
There are several types of budding, which involve slightly different techniques, but the most popular is T-budding or shield-budding.
Budding is a handy method to use if two separate plants have varied good qualities between them, as joining them together will produce an even stronger and healthier specimen. What is lacking in one plant may be found in the other and many new species of roses and other plants are born from this method.
With this type of propagation, fruit trees will produce fruit early and more quickly, plus it is also an excellent method to revive weaker plants and repair damaged ones.
There are several types of budding, which involve slightly different techniques, but the most popular is T-budding or shield-budding.
Conditions required for budding
Budding can only take place when certain conditions are present. First of all, the two plants must be compatible. For example, the root stock, or plant with the root system to which the second plant will be rooted on to, should be of the same species as the plant from which the bud is taken.
Secondly, budding is done during the active growing season and not when the plants lie dormant. In the case of roses, it is generally at the end of June and during late July or early August for fruit trees or bushes. The stock plant should be in active growth so that when a cut is made into the bark, it easily peels away or slips from the stem. Needless to say, the bud or scion must be healthy, free from disease and fully formed. At the time of budding, the bud should be dormant.
Finally, it is imperative that the cambiam layers of both plants meet for budding to take place. If they don't, the procedure will not work. The cambiam layer is the area of cells between the wood and the bark from which new cells are produced and grow.
Secondly, budding is done during the active growing season and not when the plants lie dormant. In the case of roses, it is generally at the end of June and during late July or early August for fruit trees or bushes. The stock plant should be in active growth so that when a cut is made into the bark, it easily peels away or slips from the stem. Needless to say, the bud or scion must be healthy, free from disease and fully formed. At the time of budding, the bud should be dormant.
Finally, it is imperative that the cambiam layers of both plants meet for budding to take place. If they don't, the procedure will not work. The cambiam layer is the area of cells between the wood and the bark from which new cells are produced and grow.
T-budding
Hold a piece of stem from the root stock and with a very sharp budding knife make a vertical cut 2-3cm long into the bark. Then cut horizontally at the top, so that a T-shape is formed. Carefully peel away the two flaps of bark so that a little pocket of moist exposed bark appears. You will now have to work quickly so that the sap does not dry out. If the exposed wood is dry, the plant is not in active growth and budding will not take place, so you will have to choose another root stock, although the dry plant can be used several weeks later once it is in active growth.
Next, go to the scion, ensuring that it is healthy and disease-free. Cut a piece of bark from the plant that is in the shape of a shield and includes a bud, some bark and a layer of wood. Remove the leaf blade but leave the petiole or leaf stalk in place, as they are useful to grab hold of during the procedure. Cut about ½in - ¾in below a leaf stalk, removing the knife ½in - ¾in above the leaf stalk. Try to make the cut with a single downward or upward slice, whichever is easiest.
Insert the bud and the wood gently but snugly in between the two flaps and into the slit made in the stem, ensuring that the two cambiam layers are touching. Fold the flaps back into position and gently secure the two plants together with budding rubber, plastic tape or raffia. Make sure that the bud is left exposed.
In two to three weeks time the holding tape must be removed and by this point the union joint will have healed. The following spring, remove the upper part of the root stock, approximately 4in above the bud, as this will encourage the bud to grow.
Next, go to the scion, ensuring that it is healthy and disease-free. Cut a piece of bark from the plant that is in the shape of a shield and includes a bud, some bark and a layer of wood. Remove the leaf blade but leave the petiole or leaf stalk in place, as they are useful to grab hold of during the procedure. Cut about ½in - ¾in below a leaf stalk, removing the knife ½in - ¾in above the leaf stalk. Try to make the cut with a single downward or upward slice, whichever is easiest.
Insert the bud and the wood gently but snugly in between the two flaps and into the slit made in the stem, ensuring that the two cambiam layers are touching. Fold the flaps back into position and gently secure the two plants together with budding rubber, plastic tape or raffia. Make sure that the bud is left exposed.
In two to three weeks time the holding tape must be removed and by this point the union joint will have healed. The following spring, remove the upper part of the root stock, approximately 4in above the bud, as this will encourage the bud to grow.
